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	<title>Futility Now &#187; buttery</title>
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		<title>Puffs</title>
		<link>http://futilitynow.com/2008/10/24/puffs/</link>
		<comments>http://futilitynow.com/2008/10/24/puffs/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Oct 2008 06:44:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>hazel</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[buttery]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://futilitynow.com/?p=37</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I blame it on The New York Times.  See what I mean? Here&#8217;s how it looks in process. First: carmelizing onions.  I&#8217;m a real sissy about onions unless they&#8217;ve been cooking for about an hour.  This is at about 45 minutes in, just before they&#8217;ve really started collapsing.  I can&#8217;t extol the virtues of cast [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I blame it on <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/17/dining/17appe.html">The New York Times</a>.  See what I mean?</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s how it looks in process.</p>
<p>First: carmelizing onions.  I&#8217;m a real sissy about onions unless they&#8217;ve been cooking for about an hour.  This is at about 45 minutes in, just before they&#8217;ve really started collapsing.  I can&#8217;t extol the virtues of cast iron enough here.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3111/2920013405_85a2f384da_o.jpg"><img class="alignnone" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3111/2920013405_85a2f384da_o.jpg" alt="" width="360" height="270" border="0" /></a></p>
<p>You can get a better sense of what they should look like when they&#8217;re finished in this shot:</p>
<p><a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3174/2920013487_3ac37ecdb1_o.jpg"><img class="alignnone" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3174/2920013487_3ac37ecdb1_o.jpg" alt="" width="360" height="270" border="0" /></a></p>
<p>You can also see a blob of the caramel that&#8217;s now the bottom layer, under the tomatoes.  The part you don&#8217;t see is the dance that goes <em>scrape out onions, deglaze pan with sherry, make caramel in other, inferior, pan, add caramel to cast iron pan, toss in requisite chopped olives, tomatoes, and &#8212; there we go &#8212; onions back in.</em></p>
<p>I had these delicious artisan puff pastry squares courtesy of jmags&#8217;s mother (apostrophe feel awkward there?  take it up with <a href="http://www.bartleby.com/141/strunk.html">you know who</a>).  She was up for a visit on her way to BC and took jmags <a href="http://pastaworks.com/">here</a>, one of my absolute favorites in Portland, and one of the earliest establishments still around on the now-a-bit-much-if-you-ask-me-but-still-better-than-The-Pearl Hawthorne Blvd.</p>
<p>So the squares.  I just cut them up into what S. (when she was very small) called &#8220;reptangles&#8221; and fit them loosely together, eliminating the need for slits.  You can now see how the caramel drip on the handle has been roasted into a stickier shade of burnt sienna.  It&#8217;s quite pretty this way, I think, although once flipped it&#8217;s really something to behold.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3068/2920857470_8439157816_o.jpg"><img class="alignnone" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3068/2920857470_8439157816_o.jpg" alt="" width="360" height="270" border="0" /></a></p>
<p>I have always been a fan of puff pastry in whatever incarnation it has appeared, but this is the first time I&#8217;ve really started using it regularly (as in not just for party appetizers, or something).  jmags has been going on about wrapping croissant dough around hot dogs for ages, so I made him a slight variation on the theme by making puff pastry pillows with Cajun sausage from <a href="http://www.edelweissdeli.com/">Edelweiss</a> and some cheddar for good measure.</p>
<p><a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3150/2970235003_2a1d7d4970_o.jpg"><img class="alignnone" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3150/2970235003_2a1d7d4970_o.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="450" border="0" /></a></p>
<p>Cutting them lengthwise before crosswise allowed me to fit things together nicely; it also allowed me to see the opalescent cubes of fat scattered throughout the pigflesh.  I fried the links before wrapping and baking them; as one piece bowed back toward its casing in the heat, the fat-square slowly yet inexorably popped out into the pan.  Wow.</p>
<p>Also note: don&#8217;t let the cream in the coffee fool you.  This was not my plate.  Even on the weekend, I am a pretty light eater in the morning, and I could only manage one.  But it was glorious.</p>
<p>Last experiment to share: strudel!</p>
<p><a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3198/2971077896_c67a394f43.jpg"><img class="alignnone" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3198/2971077896_c67a394f43.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" border="0" /></a></p>
<p>Shiitake &amp; portobello mushrooms, goat cheese, garlic, sherry, thyme, and a little lemon just before I wrapped it up in the dough = an ideal dish to offset the cold edge that&#8217;s crept into the evenings.</p>
<p>Final note: I know phyllo dough is supposedly vastly superior, but I have essays to grade.  Also, I have had great success with the Pepperidge Farm puff pastry sheets, as well as the Pastaworks variety, but the frozen sheets from Trader Joe&#8217;s were a real disappointment.  Even cooked well past the time recommended, they were still doughy, far less fluffy, and oily rather than buttery.</p>
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